Anafiotika, a Cycladic village clinging to the northern slopes of the Acropolis, is a lovely place for an aimless wander. Cats snooze among the potted geraniums lined up outside crooked whitewashed cottages. These humble, but hugely desirable, dwellings were originally built by stonemasons from the island of Anafi, shipped to Athens by King Otto to knock up his palace (now the Parliament building) in the mid-19th century.
The Anafiotes also built the fancier mansions that line Plaka, the self-consciously quaint old town of Athens, where Lord Byron once penned odes to underage maids. Beyond the identikit souvenir shops, you’ll stumble upon Byzantine chapels (usually open, so you can light a candle and admire the fading frescoes); quirky museums dedicated to everything from folk music to modern Greek art; and the intriguing Benizelos Mansion, a rare example of Ottoman architecture.
Dig deep and you’ll even find treasure among the tourist tat: antique textiles and ceramics at Amorgos; marble busts, ceramics and covetable curiosities at Eclectica and Soul & Matter, timeless and effortless clothing, hats, and jewellery by an international roster of niche designers at Mouki Mou (be sure to check out the secret roof garden, while you are there).
