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While the nail salon is supposed to be a relaxing place, sometimes it can be just the opposite, as you’re faced with what can feel like an impossible decision: what type of gel nail polish to choose.
It’s not just regular gel anymore, either – with endless options from Gel-X to gel extensions to shellac.
And, on TikTok, it seems like builder gel is having its moment, with nearly 70,000 posts on the app using the hashtag #buildergel, and celebrities like Jennifer Lopez and Kim Kardashian making the switch to the hard polish.
But what’s the difference between all of these fancy-sounding polishes, anyway? And which choice is the worst for your nail health? What are the potential dangers?
It seems like there are endless gel nail polish choices to go for these days, from Gel-X to gel extensions to shellac
FEMAIL has consulted top manicurists Kait Mosher (left) and Queenie Nguyen (right) to break it all down – and their thoughts might leave you changing up your regular salon routine
A recent study found that gel manicures could have potential health risks, like cancer-causing mutations, due to the UV light dryers.
But what of the gel formulas themselves?
FEMAIL has consulted top manicurists to break it all down – and their thoughts might leave you changing up your regular salon routine.
Celebrity manicurist Kait Mosher, who has worked her magic for stars like Kristin Cavallari and Maren Morris, shared with DailyMail.com the key differences between a classic manicure and a basic gel.
She said that gel polish is ‘designed to last longer,’ and will ‘reinforce’ the nails so that there’s no splitting or chipping.
‘With a regular manicure, the benefit is gorgeous nails that don’t feel thick,’ Mosher said.
‘However, they will chip or fade within a few days from living your life, so the maintenance is much higher.’
Stay away from gel that’s unbranded or white label – they have the potential to be dangerous
According to Mosher, it’s not necessarily the branded gel nail polish that you should avoid – it’s the ones that are completely unlabeled and unregulated.
‘The worst kind of gel is the cheap Amazon gel that a lot of girls are buying,’ the nail expert told DailyMail.com.
‘Most of the brands are white label, not third-party tested, have limited – if any – info on ingredients, and have left people with terrible allergic reactions and permanent nail bed injuries,’ she said.
‘The worst kind of gel is the cheap Amazon gel that a lot of girls are buying,’ the nail expert told DailyMail.com (stock image)
And, if the gel polish isn’t being applied properly, the salon manicure has the potential to take a dangerous turn.
Gel polish that hasn’t been cured in the right way or which gets onto the skin can cause an allergic reaction, per Cosmopolitan.
People can develop allergies to a chemical in the gel polish called methacrylate, causing swelling and redness around the nail, the outlet reported, even making your hands look blistered as a result.
Doing an at-home gel manicure can also increase the risk for these allergies, according to TIME Magazine.
Shellac lasts for up to two weeks and is the least expensive option
If you’re looking for a manicure that won’t chip but is easy to apply, a shellac polish might be the perfect solution.
Shellac is a patented product by the brand CND, and was created in 2010. It is applied like a regular polish would be, but in between coats it is cured under a UV or LED light.
The light bonds the ingredients in the polish together and helps it to harden, leaving you with a long-lasting, smudge-free manicure.
Shellac is a patented product by the brand CND, and was created in 2010 – leaving a flawless finish on your nails
‘Shellac contains a mix of both gel polish and regular polish,’ Queenie Nguyen , a celebrity nail artist based in Los Angeles, told DailyMail.com
‘Shellac contains a mix of both gel polish and regular polish,’ Queenie Nguyen, a celebrity nail artist based in Los Angeles, told DailyMail.com.
‘Typically, color gel polishes and shellac polishes are considered soft gels,’ Nguyen, who has worked with celebs like Jessica Alba and Carey Mulligan, explained.
‘They last up to two weeks and are applied on your natural nails, over enhanced nails and nail extensions.’
A regular shellac manicure can cost you anywhere from $25 to $45, per Harper’s Bazaar.
Gel-X can help your nails look longer and can last up to one month
If you’re in the market for a gel polish that will last a bit longer than a shellac, Gel-X could be a great solution.
Gel-X is a ‘patented nail extension system’ by the brand Aprés Nails, according to Nguyen, and is typically referred to as ‘soft gel extensions.’
She said that Gel-X extensions ‘are more natural looking’ and made out of gel polish instead of acrylic.
‘Gel X tips come in different sizes, lengths, shapes and even in colors,’ Nguyen told DailyMail.com.
Gel-X is a nail extension system that’s made by brand Aprés Nails, and is typically referred to as a ‘soft gel extension’
‘Gel X tips come in different sizes, lengths, shapes and even in colors,’ Nguyen told DailyMail.com, as seen on the model above
‘They are to applied directly on your natural nails to cover the whole nail surface which makes it more natural looking compared to acrylics.’
A Gel-X manicure can set you back upwards of $80, and typically takes around an hour to complete, sometimes more depending on the design.
However, Gel-X nails are not always easy to come by – not every nail salon will know how to apply it, so make sure to seek out a specific spot that is trained in the technique.
You will also have to get them removed by a professional, as they are not able to be soaked off with acetone.
Builder gel can strengthen your nails and can also add length
Builder gel, also known as hard gel, is a thick type of gel polish that’s applied with a fine brush, requiring manipulation from the nail artist.
The polish is sculpted to your nails and can even be used to add some length to the natural nail.
‘It is a great strengthener to use as a protective layer for weak and softer nail beds as your nails grow out,’ Nguyen explained.
‘Builder gel can be used for nail repairs, nail sculpting, overlay and even nail art encapsulation,’ Nguyen continued.
The nail expert shared that builder gel can aid in growing out your nails because it ‘helps protect the nails by hardening them,’ which means that the nails are ‘free’ to grow.
Builder gel, often referred to as ‘hard gel,’ can particularly work to strengthen your nails and add length
Mosher said that builder gel, seen above, also has more benefits for the nail than other kinds of gel polish
Typically, it takes over an hour to apply the builder gel, and prices usually start at around $60.
Mosher said that builder gel also has more benefits for the nail than other kinds of gel polish.
‘Everyone is different and builder isn’t for everyone, but it’s something I recommend for most people I see,’ she told DailyMail.com.
‘Within the next few years it’s going to be the new go-to in salons over gel polish,’ she added. ‘It’s already been established in the UK with nailfluencers, and nail artists in the states are finally catching on!’
It’ll last anywhere from two to three weeks.
Nguyen recommends doing some research to find the best brand of builder gel before going ahead with the manicure.
How long is too long to keep on your gel manicure?
Once you’ve gotten your gel manicure of choice, you may be impressed with how long it lasts.
But how long is too long to keep your mani on? According to Mosher, the timeline can vary.
‘If you or your nail tech are using a solid, trusted product and prepping the nail correctly, up to eight weeks!’ she explained to DailyMail.com.
Nguyen made the above nail look for Jessica Alba for this year’s Vanity Fair Oscars party
‘I would never recommend keeping them on that long, though. If you allow that much grow-out, the structure that strengthens the nail is no longer where it should be.’
She said that it can lead to a break right in the middle of your nail.
‘I recommend three to five weeks for wearing gel, depending on how fast your nails grow,’ she revealed.
Who shouldn’t get a gel manicure?
If you’re going through ‘serious health issues’ or are prone to allergic reactions, Mosher recommended steering clear of gel polish.
She also explained that during pregnancy, the pH in your body can change, which means that the nails don’t hold on to any product.
And those who have severely damaged nails will need to hold off and take a one to three month break before applying more gel.
What kind of gel is the healthiest for your nails?
With all of these options, it can be difficult to know which is the best choice for your long term nail health – but Nguyen recommends Shellac
With all of these options, it can be difficult to know which is the best choice for your long term nail health.
According to Nguyen, shellac polish is the best for the nails because it can be removed quickly.
‘Because shellac also contains regular polish in their formula, it takes less time to come up from the nail surface from soaking and easier to push off with a wooden cuticle pusher,’ she told DailyMail.com.
She recommends going for a shellac polish instead of a Gel-X or builder gel manicure for your first time.
