A general rule of Persian cuisine in Los Angeles: The khoresht, or complex stew, is the fundament of Iranian home cooking, with infinite individual, regional and seasonal variations. (Local author Naz Deravian’s book “Bottom of the Pot” is one portal into the glories of khoresht.) Out in the world, families and groups tend to go out for kebabs, and restaurant dishes are designed for widespread appeal. Chef and owner Saghar Fanisalek’s six-table dining room may be hidden among the thicket of other Persian cafes and markets in Westwood, but Taste of Tehran stands out as the best of the kebab houses. Fanisalek cooks a reassuring mix of dishes — marinated meats singed over flames and served with snow banks of rice, yogurt and eggplant dips as tart as they are rich — all with uncommon finesse. Just the right amount of grated onion stings the beef koobideh, shaped in undulating patterns on the skewer, and the chicken kabob has fully absorbed its lemony marinade. Tahdig, that bottom-of-the-pot rice, cracks like crystal; order it with chicken fesenjoon spooned over and let its pomegranate-tinged gravy soften the grains for a few moments. On a warm day, try to claim one of the restaurant’s few tables along the well-trafficked sidewalk. You’ll be people-watching while passersby observe back, appraising your meal with ravenous glances.
