In a city of long days, late nights and riotous fun, the Orfila is a quiet haven in which to relax before everything starts up again. Family-owned, and with just 32 rooms, you feel as though you are a guest of an eclectic old Doña who lives there, but is rarely seen. The location, on the edge of three districts, is perfect for seeing the many sides of Madrid. It’s within walking distance of Retiro park, the Prado museum and the upmarket shopping districts of Goya and Serrano. Rooms are done in traditional style – even the lower categories are spacious and have balconies with views over the gardens. Much of guests’ time will be spent in the beautiful terraced garden. One particular highlight is the breakfast buffet, overflowing with Spanish tortillas cheese, jamón and crisp, dry cava.